Search This Blog

Loading...

Friday, September 28, 2007

Quick Curry

A curry dish without a ton of cream and butter might sound counterintuitive, but after two weeks of hearty restaurant food I needed to treat myself to light homemade meals.


Santa Monica Farmers' Market to the rescue! Isn't this the cutest eggplant ever? I love the ridged shape, and the fact that it's white and light purple instead of...well, eggplant purple.


I dusted chicken tenderloin strips with salt and curry powder, seared the chicken on both sides, then sauteed one small zucchini, half this eggplant, an onion, a bell pepper, and half a pint of cherry tomatoes (all diced). I sprinkled salt, pepper, and curry powder on the vegetables, then cut the chicken strips into chunks and added that along with a cup of milk and a pat of butter. Meanwhile I started some Trader Joe's five minute cous cous, let the milk simmer into a thick sauce, and ate. Fast, healthy, and flavorful.

Brother Jimmy's BBQ

Sick of haute? Me too. Here's something down home that I found near Penn Station in Manhattan. I had an hour to kill before my train ride to DC, and I had no idea where to go, so I took a risk.
It turned out well! The server suggested I get an appetizer tray of rib tips when I confessed I was not at all hungry, just wanting to kill time somewhere where I could sit down. The tips were mostly tender and juicy, with just a few hard pieces here and there. Even most of the cartilage was edible. Quite good for a random unresearched find!
And you know I love sauce, so their crate of sauces was exciting to me. I liked the original and Carolina the best, the mustard less, and the Texas not at all. I never like Texas BBQ sauce; I just don't want that much tomato flavor! If I did I would find some salsa. They also had a "Blazin'" version of the original that had a little more kick but hardly warranted a warning sign. All in all, a fun place to stop in if you ever find yourself stuck at Penn Station.

Thursday, September 27, 2007

Jean-Georges (Central Park West)

Our first meal after getting into Manhattan was at Jean-Georges. We were close by and had heard so much about the discounted lunch menu that we had to see what the fuss was about. In general, we liked it but were not especially wowed by the food or restaurant in general. I don't know what the crowd is usually like, but it was much too "power lunch" for our taste. A lot of socialites sipping expensive champagne and sitting around in St. John suits, men in power suits talking business, servers with an affected air of formality. It's just too stuffy. Maybe I just wasn't in the mood to be "proper," having just flown a particularly grueling red eye. Thankfully, the food was good.

Fresh root beer. Yes, I was surprised that it's green! It tasted mostly of anise, almost like a non-alcoholic absinthe. Cool and interesting, but not for everyone!


Corn fritter (amazing! Loved it), cucumber soup (with jalepeno--ick), and a fig with mozarella (wish the fig had been the same size as the cheese).

I will have to ask J what he ate. I really can't remember, but I loved the smear of herb paste up the side. So beautiful.

One of the most delicious things I ate my entire time in Manhatten. Foie gras terrine on a brioche toast, sealed in caramelized sugar. The sauces are a reduced balsamic vinegar and something fruity (maybe strawberry jam).

Sooooo good! Even the micro basil went well, which I would not have expected. I could have eaten three of these and a plate of corn fritters as my lunch instead of wasting my time with anything else. I know, so unfair to call the other food at JG a waste of time.

Skate wing. Nicely done, creamy sauce. J said this was his favorite out of his courses.

Garlic soup and deep fried frogs' legs. Very tasty, and my second favorite dish after the foie gras. Of course I wish there were more legs, but I was also impressed by the depth of garlic flavor in this. Fun note: I was given a finger bowl filled with rose blossoms after this dish.

Sweetbreads with citrus slices. The only place we'd ever had sweetbreads before was Galatoire's in New Orleans, and this version was far superior. I, however, had even better sweetbreads later in my trip at Momofuku Noodle Bar.

Quail l'Orange with Asian pear cubes. Quail is always good, and this was crispy on the outside but could actually have been more cooked on the inside. I love rare meat, but when poultry is slightly chewy it's not for me. I'm not saying it was dangerously undercooked, just not to my taste. And I need to remember I don't usually like fruit with my entrees, even if it sounds like it should be awesome.
Petit fours are served even if you don't have any more room for dessert or coffee, which we didn't. This cart, especially, was something new and fun for us. A marshmallow cart! A guy comes around with a glass jar of long marshmallow strips, and cuts off cubes of them with scissors: vanilla, strawberry, and mint.

The marshmallows cut into cubes, along with some chocolates. I remember a vanilla creme filling, dark chocolate ganache, and lavendar infused ganache.

Mini macaroons, well-executed but not exceptional. These were tiny, about the size of a dime in dimeter. Chocolate, saffron, and vanilla.

Tuesday, September 25, 2007

Minibar at Cafe Atlantico (DC)

Blitzkrieg of photos coming up! I was going to try and post my vacation photos chronologically, but I could not resist. I'll post highlights throughout the week. As you probably already know. Cafe Atlantico in DC blew me away with the dining experience they call their minibar. The restaurant itself is on several split levels connected by open staircases. To get to the six-seat minibar, you have to walk through one dining room, up one staircase past the open kitchen, up another staircase through a second dining room, and up to a sushi bar style counter. They do two seatings of six a night, and seats fill up about a month in advance. $120 for the tasting, $40 or so for wine pairings, and a nice list of wines by the glass, split, or bottle. Now, put on your bibs and prepare to drool!

CAVEAT: half the fun of dining at the minibar is watching the cooks at work. These guys are masters of molecular gastronomy, deconstructing dishes and reconstructing them in unexpected and exciting new ways. The point of their artistry is not to introduce new and exotic flavors. Instead, they excel at harnessing familiar flavors, pumping up the intensity, and presenting them to you in sometimes unrecognizeable forms. It really is the most showy and interactive meal I've ever had, and well worth the price.

PARMESAN PRINGLE. A nice starter to keep us busy while the kitchen acrobatics began. We munched on these while watching the three cooks lay out all kinds of dishes, garnishes, and equipment.

CAIPIRINHA "NITRO." A classic caiprinha is mixed with liquid nitrogen and pumped through a whipped cream canister, then topped off with dry ice and liquid caipirinha. I didn't capture the effect of six of these all spilling smoke all over the counters, but it was beautiful.

"TUMBLEWEED" OF BEET. Cute, crispy, and fresh tasting. It was like the best Terra chip ever. We joked about how we all wanted to go out and buy some wire mesh napkins after seeing this presentation.
OLIVE OIL BON BON. The next wow of the night came int he form of this tiny bon bon, which had to be carefully picked up by the bulb and eaten in one bite. the outside is a pipette of crispy sugar, and the olive oil itself was a fresh grassy Spanish variety. There was also a slight hint of salt in the bon bon, which made the whole bite very nicely balanced.

"MOJITO." Carbonated mojito center, gelatinous exterior made of agar agar jelly. We were amazed. This was one of my top three favorites of the night for both intensity of flavor and creativity of presentation. Imagine biting into a large grape or tiny water balloon and having a concentrated mojito explode in your mouth!

"BAGELS & LOX." As you can tell by now, the guys at minibar are fond of deconstructing simple foods, pumping up the level of flavor intensity, creating an elaborate, excruciatingly detail focused version of the original, and then keeping the simple name. This wasn't the most exciting dish, but the flavors were clean and the tobiko was great.
We were treated to a split of Gruet bubbly by the sommelier, who is a friend of a friend who dined with us. I thought the rich blanc de noirs (?) we had was the perfect pairing for the wide array of dishes we had.

"CORNBREAD." It was simple but incredible! The only time I've ever tasted such an intense corn flavor is in the polenta at Oliveto in Oakland. The bread part was light as air, the mousse was rich and creamy, and the toasted corn on top was a nice contrast that called to mind the harder corn bits in homemade cornbread.
COTTON CANDY FOIE GRAS. Self explanatory, and a relatively simple take on the classic pairing of foie gras terrine with something sweet. Usually the something sweet is reduced red wine sauce or gelee, caramelized sugar, or something else haute. The cotton candy is a fun twist on a grown up dish.

CONCH FRITTER. With liquid center! They take conch chowder, freeze it until it's gelatinous, roll it into balls, freeze the balls solid, and then batter and fry the fritters. So the center of this is actually a liquid. Of course, delicious. I was so self-satisfied when I said "Hey, like a Shanghai dumpling!" and one of the cooks said "Exaaaactly!" in a knowing tone.

CURRIED CHICKEN WING. Yum. I don't know how many dozen ingredients went into this, but it tasted like a perfectly crisped, completely deboned, yummy piece of curried fried chicken.

SALMON-PINEAPPLE "RAVIOLI" WITH CRISPY QUINOA. I feel awful, but I really dont' remember eating this. I mean, I do, but nto really. With most of these dishes I can recall the textures and flavors, and how much I liked them on a scale of one to five. I just really dont' remember this. It wasn't my favorite or my least favorite, just forgettable. But check out the world's coolest spork! We were each given two of these and nothing else to eat with the whole night. It was fun.

SUN-DRIED TOMATO SALAD. I'm not usually a fan of sun-dried tomatoes, but these were of course a step above the usual. What I really enjoyed was the little tomato heart they scooped out and put at the end.

ZUCCHINI IN TEXTURES. The bottom layer is zucchini puree, the center is hand picked zucchini seeds, and the top is zucchini water gelee.

"CAESAR SALAD." Cute, huh? The foam is the dressing, the romaine is rolled up in thin wafers, and the two cylinders are topped with quail egg yolk and grated Parmesan. There are also two crispy hollow croutons. The flavors weren't the most exciting, but the presentation was adorable. I still don't know how they balanced that yolk on the lettuce without any of the yolks bursting or rolling off. Every diner was able to pick his/hers up and eat it without incident.
Okay, I need a break if I'm going to do the rest of the dishes any justice. More typing later, you're just going to have to wonder what the following are for now!

Back to typing. ASPARAGUS "EGG." The "egg" is actually a quail egg yolk surrounded by white asparagus puree and encased in a gelatin shell. It actually tasted soft and gooey just like a lightly poached egg. The white asparagus in foam was less exciting, since I'm not a white asparagus lover in general.

SEA URCHIN CEVICHE WITH HIBISCUS FOAM: Claire did not like the foam at all. This was not a popular dish in general. Too adventurous, maybe? I have to say, hibiscus (the stuff used to make the Mexican drink Jamaica) is pretty darned sour without any sugar. Not something everyone likes, though I do. And sea urchin is just hit or miss. Their Catalina sea urchins were a little fishier than I like. I think Santa Barbara ones are milder. I couldn't capture the color of the bright pink foam because the copper countertop reflected light like crazy!

CORN ON THE COB: a relatively straightforward take on a classic. I thought the little black bits of smoked sea salt were huitlacoche (corn fungus). That would be one way for them to take the corn theme further! The sauce, of course, was corn puree.

"GUACAMOLE." Very interesting! Thin slices of avocado rolled around tomato sorbet. Light and refreshing best describes this dish. Most amazing machine of the evening? The PACOJET. I saw one in Manhattan too, and I'm completely smitten. You freeze whatever you want in the canister, and when you're ready you insert the canister and the blades churn the frozen block into scoopable ice cream/sorbet/sherbert/etc. The cooks said they have a lot of fun with theirs. Sadly, it's about $3,000.

SMOKED OYSTERS AND APPLES: I loved the smoked oyster! They cold smoke them for several hours, and pair one with a Granny Smith apple cube and a bit of crispy fennel. I practically licked the plate clean.
NEW NEW ENGLAND CLAM CHOWDER. Yes, that's two news. Raw clams, potato puree, cream foam, and garnishes.

BREADED CIGALA WITH SEA SALAD. Cigala is a close kin to lobsters and langoustines, but is softer and perhaps milder. I liked that it was familiar but different. Does that make sense? And the puree of shrimp head innards was just fantastic.

"PHILLY CHEESESTEAK." We were trying to guess what this was, and I guessed French Dip. I was close! I had to eat this in a hurry so there are no photos of the inside, but the bread was a hollow cornet of dough filled with a cheesy foam, then topped with slices of rare beef that had been slightly rubbed (or was it topped?) with Oregon black truffles.

PISTACHIO-BEETS AND MIXED BERRIES. Perhaps the most stunningly colorful dish of the night. The photo does not do justice to the brightness of the colors or how high the contrast was between the red and green. Beet meringues were a clever way to add a contrast in texture to the perfectly smooth beet sorbet and pistachio sorbet.

THAI DESSERT. Look! It's that peanut paper we recreated. Underneath is a very light, almost loose, coconut sorbet. The black swirl is tamarind, and there's some chili powder at the end.

MATCHA BALL. Cotton candy rolled in matcha. Sorry for the fuzziness!

PINA COLADA INJECTION, PASSIONFRUIT MARSHMALLOW, SAFFRON GUMDROP IN AN EDIBLE WRAPPER. The star of this show was the pina colada injection, which required biting off the pineapple and candied ginger and then squirting the pina colada into one's mouth. I ate this last, and it left a great refreshing aftertaste after all that food. The other two were tasty confections, and the edible rice paper was clever, but after so many incredible things it was hard to be impressed by old tricks. :) I mean that in the most complimentary way.

Last trick of the night: an egg was brought to the table and smashed before our eyes. Turns out it was hollow, and our bill was rolled up inside. Ha ha, guys.

Monday, September 24, 2007

Claire's Treat!



I'm just going to call this dessert Claire's Best Idea 2007 because it was amazing. We rolled out peanut paper per the instructions of the cooks at Cafe Atlantico's minibar, and the rest was all Claire's idea. She bought some good vanilla ice cream, thought to make cardamom vanilla sauce out of some mealy peaches we bought at Whole Foods, and took me raspberry picking because I requested that my trip include one outdoor activity. Put them all together, and it's a delicious dessert!
Here's the dessert before being topped with peanut paper. Already beautiful, but the peanut paper really was what made it unique. Peanut and peaches are not something I would ever have thought to put together, but they harmonized beautifully in this dessert. The raspberries added color, crunch, and tanginess so that the dish was not too homogenous. All in all, incredible!
So thanks again to Claire for being a fabulous hostess and putting me up (and putting up with me) for an entire week. It was fun for me to get to her side of the continent after all the times she's visited me in SF and LA. More photos to come, I promise. I have hundreds from NYC and DC!

Saturday, September 22, 2007

Butler's Orchards, MD

Claire too me here today! I have never felt like such a kid in a candy shop. A candy shop full of raspberries! I'll definitely post photos next week, but there were several trays of berries all over her kitchen this afternoon, and the raspberry smoothies project looked like a bloody massacre. Can't wait for the raspberry tart project tonight!

At Butler's I also scored some apple butter and an ear of bi-color corn so fresh I could eat it raw. So good! I never get to eat corn raw. Most corn is disgusting raw, but a really fresh ear basically tastes like it's been cooked, except you don't have to boil any water.

Anyway, a few more DC restaurants. All good, though nothing so far that I would go way out of my way for except Cafe Atlantico's MiniBar.

Lavandou (near Cleveland Park Metro): we both had mussels in saffron cream. Very tasty, and I don't see rope mussels out in CA. They were the little black PEI mussels, but bigger (aka better).

Typhoon (near Dupont Circle Metro): great tom ka gai soup and appetizers, but my pad thai was middling at best.

El Pollo Rico (Arlington): cheap Peruvian roast chicken in delicious dry spices. Heck yeah.

We made pulled pork at home so I could try Claire's South Carolinian sauces, and we made dumplings so I could show her how to make the skins and get some freezer food put away. All in all, very relaxing so far. Tomorrow we hit Eastern Market.

Thursday, September 20, 2007

Pei Are Tired

I are so tired. There's no time to post the bazillion photos I've taken in the last week, but suffice it to say that both Manhattan and DC have been amazing so far. A quick rundown of food destinations visited:

Minibar at Cafe Atlantico in DC (WOW!)

In NYC:

Jean-Georges
L'Atelier du Robuchon
Katz's Deli
Russ & Daughters for lox
Zabar's bagels
H&H bagels and smoked whitefish salad
Manhattan Diner (boring, but it still gets to be on the list)
Cafe Sabarsky
Wolfgang's Steakhouse
Momofuku Noodle Bar
Chikalicious dessert bar
Babbo
Third Floor Lounge & Cafe (Koreatown)
Gahm Mi Oak
Brooklyn Botanical Garden's event catering staff
Prospect Park farmers' market
Chocolates by the Bald Guy

The least impressive were of course the diner and Koreatown selections, but those weren't our choices and we didn't expect much going in. The two I will definitely revisit on future treks to this side of the continent are definitely Atlantico, Momofuku, and Chikalicious. Everything else has been great but predictable; these three places managed to surprise and delight me completely.

Tuesday, September 11, 2007

Wedding Overload

And this time, I don't just mean wedding planning. They say June is popular for weddings, but this year it was September. I know someone getting married on every single Saturday this month, and we've chosen to go to two of the four weddings. We went to one last week, and we'll be leaving for New York tomorrow. So this is also a notice that Chez Pei will be sluggish if not completely abandoned for two weeks.
In my own wedding news: my bridal party is dressed! Phew. My sisters have their dresses, and our groomsmens' tuxes arrived yesterday. They're really snazzy! Much higher quality than rentals, and the same price as they would have paid had they rented anywhere in West LA. Plus, I think everyone's more comfortable in their own clothes than rentals, and this way no one has to be in charge of picking up and returning tuxes or risking last minute fitting problems.
This is the tie we picked to go with my sister's dark pink dresses. It looks like diagonal stripes, but it's actually more of a tiny checkered pattern with a lot more blue than is showing up in this photo. Thank goodness pink is fashionable for men these days. The guys actually thought the tie was sharp and contemporary, not horrible.

Friday, September 07, 2007

Ceviche and Oysters on the Half Shell

More summer treats. It seems extravagent to buy all this seafood in one day, but the alternative of going out to eat was even more expensive so I figured why not. Everyone deserves a treat some times. And the Fanny Bay oysters at Santa Monica Seafood today were divinely creamy, and sweet enough to eat with nothing but two drops of lemon juice.
For ceviche:
  • 1/2 pound halibut, cubed
  • 1/2 pound shrimp, cooked and cubed
  • 1/2 pound bay scallops, whole
  • 1 Persian cucumber, diced
  • 1/2 small red onion, diced
  • 1/2 bundle cilantro, chopped (about a cup loosly packed)
  • 1 package cherry tomatoes, diced (about a cup)
  • 1 very ripe avocado, diced (I did not have this, but highly recommend it)
  • juice of 2 lime
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 1/2 tsp black pepper

Marinate the halibut, shrimp, and scallops in the lime juice for two hours in the refrigerator. Add the rest of the ingredients and taste for seasoning. Refrigerate another hour. The refrigeration is important because the acids in the lime juice will break down the seafood and essentially "cook" it. This takes time, so be patient. The results are worth it! Serve with slices of toasted baguette.

Thursday, September 06, 2007

Roni's Diner

Had a late lunch with J today at Roni's Diner on Little Santa Monica. We shared their St. Louis sandwich and some tater tots.

That's just my half of the sandwich, which is pastrami, turkey, avocadoes, and Thousand Island dressing. It was enormous, came on a soft French roll, and was mighty tasty. I'm not a huge sandwich buff, but J is. And even I had to admit this was a better than average sandwich. The tater tots were great too. Crispy on the outside, soft and hot on the inside.